For boats
General
about tides and currents on Tuamotus:
The
majority of the atolls have at least one break in the reef called pass. But
only some passes are wide and deep enough to permit a cruising sailboat to
enter through them.
The current
runs strong in and out of these passes. How strong is current depends on a lot
of
factors
including the moon cycle, wind and wave conditions outside, how big the atoll
is, how
narrow the
pass is, which way the pass faces, and how many passes atoll has.
If the wind
opposes the current, there can be large standing waves. And if there are strong
winds or
large swell, there can be as much as 8 knots of current. So it is always best
to aim to enter the pass at slack or near-slack tide.
Some passes
are east-facing, and these passes will be dicey on the outgoing current. Some
passes are
west-facing, and these passes will most dicey on the incoming current.
Entering /
leaving the atolls become danger when:
1. A strong wind opposing a strong
current. This is just classic wind-against-sea and can
always
produce uncomfortable and/or dangerous conditions. It is best to try to plan
your
arrival at an unknown pass in mild conditions and in good light.
2. When the
wind is blowing hard (over 20 knots) out of the SE thru West
3. When the
wave heights are high (over 1.5
meters) from the SE thru West.
Strong
winds and/or waves from East push a large volume of water over the reef into
the lagoon, and the only way for this huge volume of water to get out is
through the pass. In this conditions (strong wind for several days) there may
be NO SLACK AT ALL.
In Tidal Tables or any other Tide software or
information available in internet on Tuamotus there are only few points with
information about HW and LW (the biggest atolls). If you are between them you
can use a simple interpolation to calculate HW and LW time. It works, not very
precise but it does.
So, there
is no easy way to predict current or slack water in passes, but you can follow
this tips:
- Slack is about 1-2 hrs after HW
and LW
- Never sail through the pass
during the night
- Observe the water and waves in
the pass when approaching from the see by binoculars
- Just try to enter / leave, but
if the current is to strong go back and wait until condition will change
(usually 2-3 hours)
The atoll
and the pass
Manihi is
almost most north atoll on Tuamotus. The atoll has one pass located on SW. It’s
quite narrow and shallow. The shallows depth is about 2.5m on LW. The pass is
well marked – first by green and red buoys then by North Cardinal Mark.
If you send
an email to Xavier Michel (xavier.michel@mail.pf), who runs the Sailmail station
here, he
will send you tide info.
When
approaching to the pass you can follow this route:
- 14 27.637S and 146 03.742W
- 14 27.452S and 146 03.612W
- 14 27.352S and 146 03.538W
- 14 27.252S and 146 03.486W
- 14 27.195S and 146 03.435W
The
shallowest place is between 3 and 4.
The main
village Paeua is just on the right (E) from the pass, but you have to approach
there around North Cardinal Mark.
If you
prefer to have someone lead you through the pass, "Fernando" will do
so if he is available. You can call "Fernando" on VHF 16 (or 08). He
works at the airport, so if there's a plane coming in at the same time, he may
not be available. There is a charge for this service. His price list says 2500
XPF (about $25 US) per boat to bring you through the pass and another 2500 to
escort you to the anchorage. That price may be negotiable.
Anchorage
Anchorage near the village is rough and open
for NE-E winds. The bottom is coral and the depth about 20 meters. It could be at
position:
14 27.531S
and 146 03.290W (20M)
Better,
more quiet but far from the village anchorage is located:
14 27.805S
and 146 03.031W with depth about 10m and sandy bottom. Unfortunately distance
to the village is about 1NM.
There is a
place for many boats.
Dinghy
landing
The best
place for dinghy landing is inside the small harbour
14 27.541S
and 146 03.433W
You can tie
and leave dinghy there.
The wharf
and harbour
In
emergency it is possible to berth directly inside the small concrete harbour.
If you can, ask for permission in Mairie (Town Hall) first, which is near the
harbour The approach to the basin is 4 meters deep, keep going in the middle. Inside
the basin moor to the quay on the left (most north - 14 27.532S and 146
03.435). There is usually an aluminum floating platform, you can moor to it. Other
option is to drop the anchor from your stern and moor bow to the quay. Near the
quay is very shallow, berthing stern could be danger for your rudder.
The second
big wharf is in the pass. But is reserved for supply ships. There is a strong
(up to 4kn) current. It’s possible to berth there, but ask in Mairie (Town
Hall) first.
Lagoon
The passage
from SW to NW and vice versa is pretty easy. Follow the green, red and cardinal
marks, close to the shore. But BE CAREFUL, there is some coral heads. Keep a
sharp look all the time. There are many places to anchor on the lee side of the
east side of Manihi coast.
Formalities:
Manihi is
not a port of entry, no possibility to check in or out.
Fernando
Fernando is
the man who likes sailors and is very helpful for us. His house is near the
shore between the harbour and the pass. It’s a white house with large window
with price list in it. He speaks English, bakes a baguette every morning, can
supply with fresh water, share own WiFi. Any question? Visit him and just ask.
– very helpful.
Fuel
Not easy to
buy, but ask Fernando. The easiest way is to buy fuel directly from the supply
ship (coming 2 times per month). They sell fuel in 200l barrels only.
Water
No official
tap point on the wharf. Ask Fernando, he can share own good quality water
directly from his bakery. Use your own containers.
Gas
Bottles
available in the shops (not all the time)
Cash
No bank, no
ATM. Payment in US dollars is rather not accepted.
Provisioning:
The town has
few shops, the biggest one is 100m from the harbour. Limited products, especially
vegetables and fruits.
Other:
Few churches,
bars, and home made food. You can make laundry by yourself, at Fernando’s
house. Cost 1000 CPF. Ask Fernando.
Airport:
Airport is
located on the other island, 2NM from the village. To get there you have to get
a ride by boat. Ask locals.
For crews
No WC or
shower on shore.
Paeua is a
very pleasant village. It is big enough to have some roads, a couple of
eateries, groceries and its own bakery.
Manihi was
known as the biggest pear factory on Polynesia. Many farms was closed because of disease of
shells. But some of them are still working. If you want to buy some pearls or
visit pearl farm ask Fernando or Xavier.
On one of
the island few miles away E from the village live Mr. Xavier Michel, who
provide private radio station SailMail. He also offer for sailors many free
services: information about tide, sea level and current report, weather
forecast etc. on e-mail, he can help in booking pearl farm visiting, taxi
boating, Tahitian meal, water and diesel. Contact: Xavier.michel@mail.pf
The real
attraction at Manihi are the people. Talk to them, enjoy the time spent
together.
Snorkeling
or diving in the pass is main attraction here, but do it only on incoming
current. There is one diving company without the office, if you want to dive
with them ask Fernando. Cost for one dive 7500 CPF (75USD).
WiFi: there
is a WiFi (available at anchorage), name ViniSPOT, but it’s not free and rather
qu slow. One hour cost about 4EUR, 20hrs – 40 EUR (payment via internet with
credit card). In 2016 the system worked wrong and with 1hr credit you can surf
all the time. You can use WiFi at Fernandos house. Just go there and ask.
There is a
church, be there during Sunday service – nice songs.
Fees
Anchorage - no fees
Berthing to
the pier – no fees
WiFi at
Fernando house – no fees
Laundry 1000
CPF per one load (8kg)
Visiting
Pearl Farm 2500 CPF per person (one pearl gratis)
One dive –
7500 CPF