For boats
Rangiroa is
45 miles
long and 15 miles
wide, and is the largest Tuamotu, and the second largest atoll in the world. This
is also most tourist atoll on Tuamotus. There are two passes, but one anchorage
that yachts seem to favor, S of the Tiputa pass.
General
about tides and currents on Tuamotus:
The
majority of the atolls have at least one break in the reef called pass. But
only some passes are wide and deep enough to permit a cruising sailboat to
enter through them.
The current
runs strong in and out of these passes. How strong is current depends on a lot
of
factors
including the moon cycle, wind and wave conditions outside, how big the atoll
is, how
narrow the
pass is, which way the pass faces, and how many passes atoll has.
If the wind
opposes the current, there can be large standing waves. And if there are strong
winds or
large swell, there can be as much as 8 knots of current. So it is always best
to aim to enter the pass at slack or near-slack tide.
Some passes
are east-facing, and these passes will be dicey on the outgoing current. Some
passes are
west-facing, and these passes will most dicey on the incoming current.
Entering /
leaving the atolls become danger when:
1. A strong wind opposing a strong
current. This is just classic wind-against-sea and can
always
produce uncomfortable and/or dangerous conditions. It is best to try to plan
your
arrival at an unknown pass in mild conditions and in good light.
2. When the
wind is blowing hard (over 20 knots) out of the SE thru West
3. When the
wave heights are high (over 1.5
meters) from the SE thru West.
Strong
winds and/or waves from East push a large volume of water over the reef into
the lagoon, and the only way for this huge volume of water to get out is
through the pass. In this conditions (strong wind for several days) there may
be NO SLACK AT ALL.
In Tidal Tables or any other Tide software or
information available in internet on Tuamotus there are only few points with
information about HW and LW (the biggest atolls). If you are between them you
can use a simple interpolation to calculate HW and LW time. It works, not very
precise but it does.
So, there
is no easy way to predict current or slack water in passes, but you can follow
this tips:
- Slack is about 1-2 hrs after HW
and LW
- Never sail through the pass
during the night
- Observe the water and waves in
the pass when approaching from the see by binoculars
- Just try to enter / leave, but
if the current is to strong go back and wait until condition will change
(usually 2-3 hours)
The atoll
and the pass
There are
two passes into the lagoon of Rangiroa. Passe Tiputa is 200m wide and at least
15m deep. Looks like very safe, but there is a strong current, up to 6kn, and
sometimes outgoing current and incoming waves do the pass rolly and danger (big
standing waves).
Second pas
is located 6NM NW (called Pass de Avatoru). It’s 200m wide but only 4m deep.
Because it’s more N is a little more quite and with less current, but also less
use by sailors.
Pass de
Avatoru seems to me to be far easier and shorter. However once through you
then have
to go five miles east inside lagoon, usually against the wind and waves. Under
ideal conditions it would be best to enter through the east pass and exit
through the west, especially if you heading W or SW (Tikehau or Tahiti or Bora Bora).
The village
Tiputa is located on both sides of the Tiputa pass. The second large village of Avatoru
is located on E side of Avatoru
Pass.
Anchorage
The most
safe anchorage is on the W side of Tiputa pass. This anchorage is more
protected from NE-E ans SE winds. The bottom in sandy with some corals and the
depth about 10-15 meters.
I recommend to anchor at position:
14 58.100S
and 147 38.219W
If strong
SE wind is blowing, anchoring become rolly but still safe. There is room for
many boats.
Dinghy
landing
Dinghies
can be landed at the concrete wharf on the western edge of the Tiputa pass, or
they can be landed on the beach just west of the wharf and tied to a tree. When
landing at the wharf, it helps to use a stern anchor to keep the dinghy from
getting caught under the wharf. Also, make sure to leave room for the water
taxis which come and go from here. If
it's a day
when the supply ship is in, wharf traffic is very busy.
The wharf
There is a
main wharf used by supply ship which coming every few days. Bu when it’s free
you can moor there for a while (for fueling or boarding or moving heavy stuff).
Do not stay there to long. Be care there is some swell.
There is
some room inside the harbour, but this place is occupied by many locals boats,
so sailors do not berth there.
Formalities:
Rangiroa is
the Port of Entry for boats. No other islands should be visited before
reporting to the officials in Rangiroa (if you didn’t check in on French Polynesia).
Yachts can
now clear in or out of FP with the “gendarmes” offices (French Police) which
deal with Immigration and Customs formalities.
The
Gendarmerie in Rangiroa is located in the village of Avatoru.
It is about 10km from the harbour
of Tiputa. Take a taxi or
ride to get there. Only captain with all passports have to go.
There is
the official source from the Government of France:
http://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/en/coming-to-france/getting-a-visa/
French
Polynesia is part of the European Union (as an overseas collective of France)
but not of the Schengen Area Agreement and has its own visa rules. These rules
closely follow those of mainland France with some exceptions that
are specific to FP.
UE sailors
All
European Union sailors don’t’ need a visa, and the procedure is easy going. You
all have to visit Gandarmerie with your passport, a captain have to fill up the
customs form, and send a copy to Customs in Papeete (there is a post office, the address
is on the form). That’s all, you are allowed to stay on Polynesia
for 2 years. Prepare a list with quantity of strong alcohol, wine, beer,
cigarettes, cigars, you have on boat (for customs form).
Non EU
sailors
You need a “Visa
On Arrival” which is good for 90 days. Applying for a 90-day visa does not help
with the bond or your check-in process. If you wish to stay longer than 90 days
in French Polynesia, you should apply for a
“Long Stay Visa”. Anyway all the crew has to visit Gandarmerie personally with
the passport.
The French Polynesia Bond.
French Polynesia requires all non-EU visitors to either prove that they have a paid way
out of
the
country, or pay a bond on arriving in French Polynesia.
This bond basically is the guarantee that the French government doesn’t have to
pay to fly indigent people home. There are 3 ways to satisfy this requirement:
1. Show an
airplane ticket out of the country
2. Pay the
bond (roughly the equivalent of an airplane ticket out of the country) – about
2000 USD. The bond is refundable when you leave, with time and paperwork. Even
if you have obtained a long stay visa, you must pay a bond.
3. Arrange
with an agent to “guarantee” you. Essentially the agent guarantees that THEY
will pay to
fly you out of the country, and so you essentially pay for an insurance policy
with the
agent – cost about 200USD per person.
All detailed
information you will get at Gandarmerie office.
Fuel
Not easy to
buy. The easiest way is to buy fuel directly from the supply ship (coming every
week). They sell fuel in 200l barrels only.
There is a
petrol station in Avatoru where you can buy a diesel and gasoline, but it’s far
away and you need own jerry cans. Take a car or taxi to get there.
Water
No official
tap point on the wharf. You can buy some water in Dive Center
or groceries (10CPF per liter). This water is not drinkable.
Gas
Bottles
available in the groceries. No possibility to refill no Polynesian bottles.
Cash
There is a
bank in Avatoru (10km from Tiputa). There is an ATM on the Airport. Payment in
US dollars is mostly accepted in many places and groceries.
Provisioning:
The town
has two groceries, located 200m from the wharf. More products than on other
islands, but still not many vegetables and fruits. Baguette available in
groceries.
Airport:
Airport is
located at the middle of the island, about 5km from the Tiputa. Easy access by
taxi. One or two flights to Papeete
every day.
Local Tax
1-2 times a
week a local policeman come to the boats and collect local tax for garbage.
It’s 1500 CPF.
For crews
No WC or
shower on shore.
Rangiroa should
be amazing beauty place on Tuamotus. Most visited by tourist and many sailors
with great potential. But, she disappointing. Beautiful, but a bit of fallen.
The
main hotel
on the island, the Kia Ora, is the only paradise place in the village. Worth to
visit.
Snorkeling
or diving in the pass is great attraction here, but do it only on incoming
current or slack. There is a place called ‘Aquarium”, it’s located along W
coast of island Motu Nuhi Nuhi (small tiny island S of the Tiputa pass). Good
place for snorkeling and diving. There is few small buoys used by diver’s
boats, but you can moor there.
WiFi: most
of restaurants or snack bars has a free WiFi. Visit one of them and enjoy.
Water taxis
run between wharf and the town of Tiputa
on the east side of the pass (300
XPF per person
each way). If the weather is well (no big waves) it's easy enough to take your
own dinghy, and there is also a wharf on that side where you can land a dinghy.
There are a couple more magasins in Tiputa. There is also a post office with an
ATM.
Diving
There is at
least 3-4 diving offices. One dive is about 70-80USD. I get information that
diving there is worth to.
There is
few small pearl shops – most of them closer to the Avatoru.
Fees
Anchorage - no fees
Berthing to
the wharf – no fees
Taxi from
Tiputa to Avatoru – 500CPF if a mini bus, or 1000-1500 if a cab.
Water taxi
to the other side of the pass – 300CPF each way.